The monthly jottings of a free-spirited Ponsonby dressmaker of the 1920s, as imagined by Angela Lassig.
Dearest Clara,
You must be so excited about Honolulu. How I wish that I was coming with you! The thought of escaping the New Zealand winter and lazing about in the warmth is too beguiling. I think it is a good idea to purchase your swimming suit in Hawaii as you want to be up-to-date and who knows what they’re wearing there. Just think, when you return it should be starting to get nice and hot here and you’ll have had a huge head start on your suntan. Don’t be surprised if you see an extra-large trunk along with your luggage when you board next week - I will be in it!
I am so pleased that you liked the skirts that I made for your holiday wardrobe. I had the linen woven for me by a local artisan, Sybil Mulvany[i], who has a real talent for colour. Once she’s threaded up her loom she can weave me many different pieces from the same warp[ii] - it is wondrous to watch. I think the stripes are suitably jaunty for a summer holiday. And if you need any ideas, darling, the skirt looks super with a black silk jumper and black glacé kid shoes. (That’s how I plan to wear mine).
While not the South Seas, I am very much looking forward to a little boating excursion this weekend. George is taking me fishing in his wee dinghy, launching from the little beach at the end of his street. The weather is supposed to be very good - a continuation of the glorious blue sky days that we’ve been having this week. Of course this means that it will also be very, very cold! I don’t anticipate catching anything and am bringing along a good book just in case. George has much more patience for fishing than I but I do like bobbing on the water. You’ll probably be reclined on a deck chair reading French fashion magazines in the sun while I’m shivering away with only a thermos of tea to keep me warm.
You know how I love a good costume drama... yesterday I took myself off to the morning session at the Britannia[iii] to see “Fashion Row” which promised bizarre, dazzling and new gowns in every scene. (It also sold me with ‘Virgins, Vengeance and Vodka’ to be completely honest!) While the drama was standard fare, my word the gowns were stunning! My favourite was a silver lamé gown that draped (or should I say dripped) from Mae Murray’s shoulder, forming a shimmering pool-like train behind her. How I wish we had occasions to wear such glorious things. But even if we did, one would have to be so confident to withstand the attention it would inevitably attract. You could carry it off my dear!
While I’m on the subjects of gorgeous gowns... I’ve just finished a lovely frock for a young lady who - if I am to believe her mother - is a rising opera star. She’s been studying with Madame Irene Ainsley[iv], one of our more glamorous locals and a former pupil of Dame Nellie Melba no less! Madame cuts a charming figure on Ponsonby Road and I hope to court her business once I find an excuse to pay her a visit. My young lady has been invited to perform a number of famous operatic arias at a recital at the Queen’s Hall[v] here in Ponsonby early next month. As I have been invited to attend, perhaps I shall arrange to ‘bump into’ Madame then.
Madame should approve of her star pupil’s costume at any rate. While I know nothing of her musical talents, I do know that my young lady has wonderful taste in clothes. I was most pleased that she accepted my suggestion of a simple but exquisite gown inspired by a Paquin confection that we came across while leafing through Les Jardin des Modes[vi]. It is a mid-calf length gown with a short train which has a loose bodice with simple flat straps and a generous sash at the waist. She was also happy to accept my recommendation of a deep rose pink silk overlaid with silver tissue lace. The lace overlay extends beyond the underdress to her ankles, allowing a peep at her silver kid shoes. We are both very pleased with the result and I hope to attend the recital and see it by candlelight. The hall does have electric light but Madame I believe is rather a romantic and has demanded a more flattering mode of lighting for the evening. I’m not sure what I’m wearing yet but I feel that the evening demands sequins or metallic lace - or both!
With this in mind, I’m going to see what I can find in the way of trimmings at a two-day exhibition and sale of Eastern and Oriental goods[vii] which starts on Thursday. The advertisement promises Indian laces and silks as well as brass and other trinkets. I’m hoping to find some little extravagances to use not only on my ‘opera gown’ but for my spring and summer collections. I like to take the opportunity when I can to buy trims that no one else has - it adds just that little bit more exclusivity to one’s designs.
Anyway my dear, I’ll tell you all about my haul in my next letter, which I shall be addressing to you at your hotel in Honolulu, the thought of which makes me sigh with envy yet again. I think it’s time for a cup of tea and a big slice of cake to cheer me up.
With all my love and best wishes for the most wonderful holiday, Maudie xx
[i] Sybil and Josephine Mulvany, Taniko Weavers, Auckland 1927-1936
[ii] The warp threads run vertically and form the selvedges of a cloth
[iii] Rox Woodward’s Pictures / Britannia, ‘The Little Theatre with the Goods and Comfort’, Three Lamps (1924)
[iv] Madame Irene Ainsley, Pupil of Madame Mathilde Marchesi and Dame Nellie Melba, Teacher of Voice Production and Singing,
7 Waitemata Street, Ponsonby (1924)
[v]Queen’s Hall, Paget Street, Ponsonby
[vi]A French language women’s fashion magazine published monthly between 1922-1970
[vii]The sale was held in aid of the Ramabai Mukti Mission in the East Street Hall, off Karangahape Road (1925)