With a super-sweet smile and an undimmed passion for design even after many years in the industry, Ruby’s Deanna Didovich is one of New Zealand fashion’s quiet achievers.
When we chat one miserable, rainy Auckland day, she is knee deep in designing the label’s pre-spring collection, which is due to drop into Ruby stores in July. It is one of several small collections that the label releases each year, a decision that means Deanna is kept busy and Ruby fans well satiated. “As soon as I’ve wrapped this up I’ll move on to summer and then our next sleepwear range,” she tells me, the latter a runaway hit for the brand that I personally own several pieces from. Was the sleepwear collection - under the moniker, Quiet Please - created in answer to customers who were so enamoured of the label that they wanted to sleep in Ruby too? “Not exactly,” says Deanna, “it was more a case of me wanting to create a bit of a sub-brand, and sleepwear with a daywear crossover just seemed like the perfect choice.” She adds that from day one, every single piece in the Quiet Please range was designed “not just for going to bed in, they can all be translated into your wardrobe to be worn by day as well. There’s a slip dress that you can wear to bed or to a party, a shirt that you can wear to bed with boxers or to work with a great pair of jeans... We select a beautiful print for each collection too, just for that extra special element.”
Talk turns to the Ponsonby Ruby store, which has been on the strip for five years now and is definitely a key part of the luxe retail landscape. Does she think the Ponsonby customer is different to say, the Newmarket Ruby shopper? “I’ve asked the retail staff there and they say the Ponsonby store is just such an amazing mix of customers that it’s hard to pinpoint one particular type of woman,” says Deanna, adding that the store can be filled with mothers and daughters, working women on their lunch breaks or groups of school girls after 3pm. “The clientele is made up of a range of women who appreciate the variety we have on offer,” says the designer, “be that accessories at a lower price point, the Ruby label, the slightly older Liam, our sleepwear and our resortwear. There is something for everyone and that is reflected in the customer base.”
The label is also known for its statement, modern-with-a-twist eveningwear, such as the incredible Marina dress seen so often on Instagram last year that was named after Deanna’s Sydney-based, superstar stylist sister. “We have always catered for occasions like weddings, school balls and 21st birthdays and our customers love that,” says Deanna, “they know they can come in at a moment’s notice and find the perfect dress.”
For autum-winter 17, the label explores what it likes to call “a world of love-worn clothes”, and continues the spirit of la gioia della vita - Italian for ‘the joy of life’ - that began with its autumn releases under the name La Collezione. Dark romance inspires the collection, because as we all know, no love story is flawless. Flirty dresses, ruched waists and off-shoulder ruffles are interrupted by distressed denim separates and bronze rivet detail.
Enveloping outerwear is mixed in with more structured pieces, including the Piero jacket, a patch pocket military-inspired style that is destined to make its way into many a wardrobe. A khaki wool turtleneck completes the selection, and when worn with a mini skirt, is exactly what’s needed to conquer the unpredictable weather we are all learning to know and love!
A highly detailed Fresco print and polka dot can be found in there that further embody the Italian aesthetic, as does a Fornasetti-inspired artwork emblazoned with the words “Numero 37 Viale Lune.” Colours are flushed and full of life, with rusty rose, merlot red and the lightest pink on show. “I always wanted the winter collection to look really luxurious and opulent,” says Deanna, “and I think we’ve really achieved that.”
Lastly, I ask the designer how Ruby feels about the constant retail invasion of Ponsonby by the big chain stores, one of which seems to open every month. “It is what it is,” she says a smile, “and they bring new customers to the area which can only be a good thing for us. We have a loyal customer base so we are just embracing it.”
“Ponsonby is pretty lively these days and we love it.” (HELENE RAVLICH)