There was a swirling cloud encompassing Kilauea. It dominated the landscape all the way up the coast to Hilo and left the volcano barely discernible through the haze.
We slipped by, skirting the 3000m tsunami breakwater built to protect the town from the sea.
This part of the island of Hawaii is prone to devastating tsunamis from the east and the sizzling creeping lava flows from Kilauea and Mauna Loa volcanoes at its southern and western sides.
Mauna Loa is one of the largest and most active volcanoes on earth and Hilo is built on old lava flows, so it naturally worships the goddess of the volcanos and fire – Pele.
Between the tsunamis and the lava, you can’t get much closer to the perils of nature than Hilo.
Last night there was excitement on the ship in anticipation of our call today. Recently, the volcanoes of Hawaii had woken with fiery displays of lava spewing from their mighty depths.
In Halema’uma’u' crater on Kilauea, lava had been seeping out over the floor of the caldera and down its flanks towards the sea, destroying the roads and farms lying in its path.
The mighty and spiritual gods of the land had awakened – although, disappointingly, today they have also awakened Lonu, the god of rain. A real Hawaiian rain, equalled only by that of a summer’s monsoon in Auckland.
Subsequently, today the vistas from the surrounding volcanic viewing points are a complete whiteout with barely a glow of orange peeping through the curtain of precipitation. Therefore cancelling most of the tours.
There were plenty of moping Cunarders wandering our hallowed halls realizing that their dreams of seeing nature’s wonder in all of its glory, were dashed against a blistering volcanic crater.
It may be raining but, hey, it is still 33 degrees.
In an act of infantile sulkiness, most of the passengers decided to stay on board, but for me the siren’s call to visit Hilo again was too much.
I remembered last time (pre Covid) Hilo being full of a certain funky tourist vibe, a lively coffee culture with a fascinating indigenous scene.
The island has embraced a number of different cultures, in particular the Japanese.
The Lili'uokalani Park and Gardens contain the largest Japanese gardens outside of Japan and have free entry, not that it was a defining factor other than, well, they were free.
It also appears that they lay half way between the ship and the promise of a decent cup of Kona Coffee. Aaahhh, Kona Coffee. The gift of the gods… it’s not Ponsonby Road, but needs must, and it’s only a 20 minute walk.
Built between 1917 and 1919, the park is on land donated by Queen Lili'uokalani and is beside the breakwater, affording a terrific view of the town on one side and the ship on the other.
I love a good Japanese garden. The serenity invoked can relax the most highly strung cruiser and outlive any expensive treatment in a ship's spa – besides, did I mention it’s free?
Huge banyan trees line the entrance leading you through the park into the themed areas: serene ponds full of fish, beautiful pagodas set on islands in a lake, carved arched bridges decorated with dragons and bright red fretwork with multiple sculptures abounding and, fortunately, a tea house that offered a welcome shelter from the downpours that dominated the day.
Sadly, it seems for the township of Hilo, Covid and the intervening years had not been kind to what was, only a few years ago, a vibrant and cafe-laden town.
The economy here was particularly decimated and now the main street is awash with lots of empty and dilapidated shops and numerous cafes now shuttered and closed. The vibe, so well remembered, had now sadly vanished.
Even the farmers market, once lively and colourful, seemed sad and neglected.
Like the rest of the world, the tourist town of Hilo has suffered much, but with the charms and assets the island has to offer, it can only improve from here.
On the one hand, it was too soon to visit the island on a cruise ship, but, on the other hand, if we don’t visit, how can it recover?
As the ship prepared to throw off our lines and depart, the sun came out and a rainbow formed over the town – hopefully a portent of a more prosperous future.
The Captain said, “Look out for the whales on the starboard side.” I was on the port… but, hey ho, it’s still 33 degrees. (ROSS THORBY)
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29 May 2023