I am sitting in Sidart in Three Lamps, one of the most elegant restaurants in Auckland. Sharp lines, cool tones, epitome of style.
I am with a couple of exceptionally talented people. Owner and Head Chef Lesley Chandra and Front of House Manager, Joe Costello. Laid out in front of me is one of Lesley’s immaculate signature dishes, dry-aged duck from Eastherbrook farm, a local Pukekohe duck and quail specialist.
The couple rearing the birds have been doing so for many decades now with the best of philosophy and intent. The duck is pan fried, charred on the skin and the sauce is a mixture of duck fat, spicy date and blood orange oil, lightly sprinkled with hazelnuts and radicchio.
The taste is clean with only the merest hint of ‘game’ beautiful tannin, texture and balance between spice and sour notes.
Only a great pinot noir could be matched with such a dish to complement this plethora of flavour components.
We are drinking the 2020 Cristom Willamette (pronounced in the same fashion as ‘God damn it’) Valley Pinot Noir, the most iconic pinot producer from the state of Oregon and arguably the entire United States.
Why? We like to call it the ‘iron fist in the velvet glove’, translucent in colour, exceptionally supple in tannin but packed with balance and flavour from red fruit to ‘mossy’ and ‘forest floor’.
It's almost as if you are in the duck hide blowing on the duck whistle, except you're not, you're actually in a glamorous cityscape setting.
As we swirl our wines and delight in our ‘tucker’ the conversation turns to the unique menu and the impressive people who have designed such an experience. Lesley and Rob are an incredible team.
From the R+D in the kitchen, across the pass and onto your plate, every element of the service is refined, precise and sensory.
In fact their menu is designed in parts, you choose a series of parts from a mini series comprising nine parts and lasting just over an hour to a complete series of a decadent 17 parts lasting several hours.
Lesley was born in Fiji and came to New Zealand at age ten. In his home he was always surrounded by food - He had a twin passion for rugby and the art of the culinary - we are very pleased indeed that he followed his kitchen karma.
Rob is from Ireland and initially came to New Zealand for a short spell, Covid led him to reassess his options and make Auckland his home. I myself am of Indian origin, raised in London. I can relate to Lesley’s upbringing.
The Indian kitchen always has the most amazing spice drawers - fresh cinnamon quills, cardamom, star anise, fennel seeds, cumin seeds, turmeric, chill and more and more and more.
The kitchen is always busy and the food is both continuous and communal; it fosters togetherness, so it's no wonder so many talented chefs come from this extraction.
Lesley’s focus at Sidart is completely on modern New Zealand tucker done in the most innovative style and taste. He’s done his time with such stellar establishments as The Typing Room in London and closer to home, Cassia and Baduzzi.
Lesley took over the reins at Sidart in 2019 and not long after walked into Covid.
One of Auckland’s truly Michelin quality restaurants spent nearly two years in a state of take away service, and then as we move into 2023, Lesley, a father of three and employer of fifteen staff, is faced with the same pressures that we are all facing - a rising cost of goods and services bill in one of the most labour-intensive restaurants in New Zealand.
But this should not deter you; Lesley is determined and exceptionally talented and the experience offered to you at Sidart is second to none - the place is a Ponsonby icon and truly in safe hands.
It’s a home for me. When I first came to Auckland plying my wares as a fine wine merchant, Sidart was one of my first ports of call.
On many an afternoon while the team in the kitchen - with almost zen-like calmness - prepares the most insanely intensive compositions, I have sat at those tables gazing across the balcony to the Auckland cityscape and feeling blessed to be here.
And as I sit in Sidart with Lesley and Rob now, I take a bite of duck, a swig of pinot and feel glad that I stand together with such strong, intelligent, innovative, compassionate and international characters. (PUNEET DHALL)
@puneetofponsonby
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