Alan Dempsey, Ebo’s EbikE Guru.
The world laughs when two perfectly rational parties argue tribally, based purely on the fact that they own a certain brand, or breed, passport, prophet, or footie club scarf.
Bizarrely, E-Bike drive-preferences have entered this Colosseum. I recently sat in an ebike-strewn café listening to two unintentionally hilarious clutches of otherwise sane bicycle sophisticates, tribally debating the merits of “Hub-vs-Mid Drive.” I’m now wondering if I am not the only un-cemented E-bikeDrive opinion holder on the subject. Thus, risking the ire of both camps I’m going to discuss the snakes and ladders of each of these means to the same end. i.e. having a green/cheap fun commute or adventure on an EbikE. So, if you’re even vaguely interested in EbikEs. (who isn’t?).
E-bikes are all driven by one of two motor/transmission systems. Both are pretty good systems.
Hub Drives are a much less complex arrangement whereby the electric motor integrated into the Hub of rear wheel. The usual modern Planetry Reduction drive (Smaller, usually bright alloy 150-160mm diameter) come in various qualities. Do your research. DON’T go to 250W. Auckland is simply too hilly. Hub Drives give excellent constant power, which for flat to undulating and constant gradient hill commute, and cruise trail is excellent. It is governed by being selected to a constant speed limit setting. That setting governs speed, by limiting the power delivered, so if you’re in Power2 for example, you’ll be getting 2/5ths of the grunt of Power5. You’ll cruise (flat, pedal assisted) at around 12-18km/hr depending on the software. When you hit a hill, to maintain speed , you merely click up to Power3 or 4 or 5, depending on gradient and/or your lust for feeling like a Climbing God. Most riders use the thumb-throttle to “kick off”. Always best to pedal-assist, ESPECIALLY UPHILL.
Mid-Drive; a more complex, groovier yet higher maintenance system. The motor is mounted adjacent to the pedal-cranks, to drive the system via the pedal cranks. This gives the rider a dynamic sensation of very responsive pedal power. MidDrives enjoy greater cachet in the café-set, and that “cycling god” sensation of power delivery. Reality is, 350Watts is 350Watts, and in fact because the hub drive IS the wheel, it delivers the power a little more efficiently. So long as similar pedal assistance is applied. But NOTE; with Mid-Drive does pass its huge torque through all the system, requiring attention to lubrication and gearing selected. Over gearing WILL shorten the life of these moving parts to mere 100s of kms, where 1000s of kms is the design life. This is not discussed by many sellers, so just know this issue exists.
Mid-Drive really does excel in actual Mountain Biking, where torque is needed instantly, irregularly. In the real commuter and cycle trail world there isn’t a lot in it, in practical terms. For example College Hill is steep and long. It’s a typical Auckland commute climb, a constant gradient, so one power and gear setting will get you there. In pure practical terms HubDrive is just as good here. One Tree Hill on the other hand, is a mother-steep , variable gradient climb. A decent genuine 350W HeavyDuty hub motor will whip you up there, but you’ll feel like Eddy BloodyMerckx on the mid-drive. You put a little more effort in, but it corresponds with more effort. But with both systems you’ll “feel like” it’s you killing that climb.
COSTS: On the Mid-Drive is this “feeling” worth $2-8000 ( $2k minimum) price differential over the HubDrive?... your call. Also factor in the fact that if you don’t give substantial Pedal Assist on hills, both WILL need expensive maintenance; chain and possibly even motor/transmission. Dollar-wise It’s an “ego satisfaction for more money” but it comes with its caveats. And few sellers are tellers of this fact.
Summary: I love both. Purchase and Operational Costs is a plus factor in HubDrive favour. HubDrive will do virtually everything a Mid-Drive will, just differently. MidDrive has street cred if that stuff is important to you, and real punch, but it’s a (pricey) buzz, especially if you’re not prepared to ride it gear-wise/skilfully. The key to BOTH is substantial pedal assist your bike on hills. Even small effort unloads the torque from the mechanical systems. Throttle-only riding is for flat-streets only, even then, best you don’t. And select your gears down to match gradients (pedalling at ~ 60 RPM is easy , and ideal)… but while this is desirable on HubDrive.. it’s critical on CenterDrive. Either way… get out there and Do It ! Fun, fun, fahn on zee Autobahn!