The actual percentage of organically certified wine produced globally remains relatively low as a percentage of total wine produced
Look more closely and you’ll see that the major French regions are a step or two behind.
Worth considering that compared to many New World regions, the French do have a lot more red tape to work through to make any change within the appellation rules. Though that of course is not an excuse, merely an observation.
However we are starting to see change, whether driven by customer demand or by a new generation of growers.
The Bordeaux region’s dive into organic and biodynamic viticulture has been much talked about, with ‘big names’ such as Chateau Pontet Canet in Pauillac, and Gruaud Larose in St Julien making the change, but all regions have challenges to overcome when changing their farming methods. The Bordeaux region’s climate does not make it particularly easy, coupled with Vitis vinifera’s susceptibility to both powdery and downy mildew. As climate chaos reins we are seeing more vintages impacted by frost with catastrophic impacts on volume.
Challenges aside, we are seeing an increasing number of very smart Chateaux at all price points crafting wines organically. We have in our direct import range a collection of organic and natural wines from Bordeaux that are well worth exploring.
Chateau Marquisat is in the Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux area; their Marquisat la Perouse is an organically certified and biodynamically managed merlot-dominant property - naturally crafted with no artificial additions to the wine-making process. It’s sleekly smooth and plummy, with a lovely supple quality and great fruit purity.
Chateau Moneins is produced as a second label for the larger Chateau Micalet. The property is in Cussac-Fort-Medoc on the river between St. Julien and Margaux. Chateau Moneins is one hectare in size and has vines with an average age of 30 years, growing in deep gravel soils. The vines are 50% cabernet and 50% merlot. The Fedieu family have never used chemicals on the property and respect the Medoc traditions and are passionately involved with the terroir's ecology.
They practice full organic farming, becoming AB certified with the 2009 vintage, and observe the lunar calendar to set the date of sulfur or Bordeaux mixture treatments (to fight mildew), let the land rest seven days after the pulling out of a vineyard plot (to naturally destroy harmful fungi), and carry out the alcoholic fermentation with natural yeasts. The family use cover crops to promote biodiversity and add no sulfites during winemaking.
In July we celebrate all things French, including these great wines. Pop online or instore to check it out.
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