After 45 years carving out a stellar career behind the scenes of New Zealand fashion, it is most definitely designer Paul Chaplin’s time to shine says Helene Ravlich..
Preferring to allow his work to speak for itself, the self-effacing creative talent launched his eponymous label in September of last year.
Despite the tumultuous nature of 2020, word soon began to get out about the Chaplin label, whilst a recent pop-up at Ponsonby Central allowed his audience to grow. Now his beautifully executed and unabashedly timeless garments are admired and worn by a collective of women of all ages, which is exactly how he wants it.
Paul’s childhood dreams of becoming a fashion designer were stymied early on as he graduated into an industry at a time when female designers were highly sought after. After sketching garments from the age of 12 and graduating with a diploma in fashion design and pattern drafting from the New Zealand College of Fashion Design at the tender age of 17, he found himself unable to secure a design job so embarked on a very successful career as a pattern maker and grader. His prodigious talent saw him go on to support some of New Zealand’s biggest names behind the scenes, working with designers to help bring their vision from a sketch to a reality in the most effortless and creative way possible.
Married with two children and with the full support of his wife Linda, he continued to design for himself after hours, developing a passion for working with natural fibres like wool, silk and linen. In 1977 he entered the Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards and received two nominations in the Day Wear and the Young Designer categories, winning a highly commended award in the Young Designer section. He continued to receive regular nominations throughout the late 1980s and 1990s, in 1994 winning the Woolmark Fashion Award with a beautiful hand-dyed wool look inspired by costuming in the Jane Campion film, ‘The Piano’.
Come 2002 he started his business as an independent under the moniker, PJD Pattern Services Ltd, and also met his current partner, Andrew. The move offered Paul the freedom to work for a variety of design companies including David Pond, Ricochet, Gregory’s, Maggie Potter, Sabine and Isakelle, but when the middle market began going offshore with its production, streamlining saw him consolidate further. He pivoted to working closely with emerging design labels committed to keeping their ranges small and locally made, and loved spending time providing support to much missed local label Harman Grubiša in its early days, as well as Paris Georgia and Taylor.
Now concentrating solely on his own label, he brings a wealth of experience to what he does, and at 65 also has the time to sit back and get things exactly right. “I also feel like my age has no relevance, as I’ve always kept very current but not only following the industry, but actively working with young labels within it.”
He is one of the foundation supporters of the New Zealand Fashion Museum curated by Doris De Pont, and when the NZFM held a runway show at Silo Park recently, the show line-up included Paul’s award-winning Woolmark garment. When the twenty-somethings working on the show remarked how much they loved it and would happily wear it now, it was further encouragement that he was on the right path.
“I don’t believe in releasing collections these days,” says the designer, “instead allowing things to gradually evolve over time and adding them to the line up.” The Chaplin offering is also quite trans-seasonal and speaks to layering, which is a factor so essential given New Zealand’s unpredictable climate.
Hero pieces currently on offer include the Paloma waistcoat, which received a lot of attention during May’s pop-up shop at Ponsonby Central. Crafted in light-weight Italian wool with the Chaplin label’s signature pocket detail, it has an incredibly flattering cutaway back that forms an elongated centre back panel. It can be worn alone for evening, or layered over a shirt by day, making it an essential classic piece that will be loved for a lifetime. I personally love the fact that it has pockets, with Paul laughing and saying: “over the years I have learned that every woman loves pockets! They definitely shouldn’t just be for men.”
The Elsa shirt is another hugely popular signature piece. Oversized and in 100 per cent pure linen, it can be worn as a shirt or duster jacket, with details like deep side splits and an attached half belt giving the garment that little bit extra that makes it pure Chaplin.
The designer is still passionate about natural fibres and the use of deadstock fabrics to minimise the impact on the planet’s resources, as well as creating timeless pieces that won’t be worn once and thrown into the back of the closet. “I think creating timeless but not boring pieces is key,” says Paul, “adding that extra special element that makes a garment stick out from the crowd.” He names all of his pieces after women who have inspired him, be it due to their intelligence, wit, beauty, or what they have achieved. The Elsa for example, being named after the inimitable Elsa Peretti.
Chaplin is currently only available online, but Paul is committed to further pop-ups after the first proved such an invaluable experience. “The feedback we got during that week was so important to me,” he says, “and allowing women to see the garments up close and feel the beauty of the fabrics was essential.”
Paul has worked with many family-owned and run design and manufacturing businesses, and is proud that his own label has become a family affair of sorts. His daughter Veritty has been creating accessories for Chaplin as well as styling many of the campaign and lookbook shots, and his son Jordan created the soundtrack for short films on the label’s website showcasing special garments.
Paul says he never stops creating, with a workroom at his downtown Auckland home and inspiration coming from all manner of sources. “They say that designers never really stop,” he laughs, “they just die.” (HELENE RAVLICH)
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