All too often we find ourselves talking about the newest wines we have tasted and looking forward to exploring new producers.
It is far too easy to overlook the tried and true, particularly when they are so understated. I have been selling Brookfields wines for almost three decades and throughout that time there have always been wines I have been supremely confident in recommending. Knowing that everyone who tries them will come back for another bottle, they are nothing if not consistent.
I recently visited with Peter Robertson at Brookfields and must say I find myself rewriting the story a little. The quality of the wines and understated value have not diminished at all. In fact, the quality has never been as grand, and the styles of the wines are evolving as this tiny winery in Hawke’s Bay continues innovate.
Biochemistry graduate Peter arrived in Hawke’s Bay from Otago in the early 1970s, where he proceeded to work at the McWilliams winery with the legendary Tom McDonald. In 1977 Peter purchased the Brookfields Winery and redirected its focus towards producing fine table wines. Within a decade he had firmly established Brookfields as one of Hawke’s Bay’s premier wineries.
As Peter puts it: “Our philosophy is to produce fruit-driven, balanced wines that are enjoyable in their youth, have the potential to mature, and are above all, good with food. We are currently planting new varietal clones with the aim of improving the quality of the yields because I believe that great wines are made from superior fruit.”
I can certainly vouch for the aging ability of these wines. During the festive season we had the opportunity to open several older bottles and magnums of both the Hillside Syrah and Gold Label Merlot Cabernet; all excellent and all showing younger than expected, these wines do age beautifully.
Tasting through the recent releases with Peter, a few notes stood out. Marshall Bank Chardonnay is wild fermented with 50 percent of the wine going into oak. The wine now only goes through a partial malolactic fermentation - the acidity and freshness enjoyable. Brookfields Viognier is a wine to hunt out; Peter has been making this for many years. The style has changed and it is back to being a barrique fermented viognier, with only one of those barrels being new.
Bergman Chardonnay 2018 and 2019 were both wild fermented; the palate is broader and the texture impressive. Talking to Peter about this, he explained the ferment is not getting as hot which is allowing the freshness of the fruit to be retained. The 2019 Bergman is delicious.
Robertson Pinot Gris 2020 is drier than it has been before. It’s a wine focused on food and is a delicious, fruit forward, leaner style of pinot gris.
Rose 2020 is a dry style and there is a great perfume to this wine which is made from free run syrah, with the roundness coming from a sweet reserve from partially fermented pinot gris being added to the wine.
Ohiti Cabernet is one of the few straight cabernet’s made in New Zealand. My notes from tasting this read – ‘this is impressive plus!’ Peter has changed the clone of his cabernet from the earlier days to the Langhorne Creek Clone LC10. It ripens a week earlier than the old mass selection, which avoids the rain pressure that usually occurs a week after harvest.
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