Liz Wheadon: Appellation Marlborough

New Zealand is a relatively young winemaking country, one that has rapidly grown to garner international fame, particularly for our Marlborough sauvignon blanc.

As we are still in our infant years in relation to the world of wine, we don’t have the years of history and with that regulation that’s been established in some of the regions. This in itself is a good thing in my books, as it means we are free to experiment, to do what we want, where we want and in doing so work out the best way to produce quality wine in New Zealand. I’ve always felt that putting too much regulation in place too quickly would stifle our good old Kiwi spirit. Though I do acknowledge that, as we mature, protecting what we do and ensuring authenticity is going to be vital.

I’m just all for us walking before we take on the marathon. We do though now have a number of new regulations, the latest being Appellation Marlborough. Something I’ve been watching with great interest. It does on one hand make a lot of sense. We’ve become known around the world for our sauvignon blanc, specifically for Marlborough sauvignon blanc – it’s worth protecting. So, what then does one have to do to bear the Appellation Marlborough badge on the label? Here’s the official info:

Origin – Wines are made from grapes that are 100% sourced from Marlborough vineyards.

Integrity – Wines are made from grapes cropped at or below set parameters, established according to seasonal and soil variability. Where cropping levels exceed that level, wines must be approved by an independent panel of experienced local producers.

Authenticity – Wines must be bottled in New Zealand.

Sustainability – Associated vineyards are certified by a recognised sustainable viticulture scheme.

Reading that, I can hear you say, ‘but aren’t all Marlborough sauvignon blancs from Marlborough, quality made, bottled here and sustainable?’ Sadly, they are not and with many a large producer finding it cheaper to bottle overseas closer to the end market, more and more will fall out of these criteria.

So, Appellation Marlborough is a good thing then? From the point of educating those buying Marlborough sauvignon blanc and putting a quality stake in the ground, yes, it is. What worries me a little in researching this piece and putting together this selection of wines, is wines that clearly can be in the list that are not, opting to go there when they are ready? And wines that have part of their production labelled as Appellation Marlborough and part not. I’m all for clarity and ensuring we know what we are drinking and what’s in the bottle, but wonder if there’s more work to be done here yet. (LIZ WHEADON)

www.glengarry.co.nz