Liz Wheadon: Lilbert-Fils - A Grower Champagne

What exactly are Grower Champagnes? There are four different types of producers in the Champagne region.

Then there are Cooperatives – an impressive 67 selling cooperatives in Champagne, with 2234 brand names. There are Buyers Own Brands, which are labels created by négociants for specific retailers. Finally, Grower Champagnes; someone who owns the vineyard, grows the grapes, makes the wine and markets the wine. Grower Champagne houses tend to have far smaller production, with 4000 - 150,000 bottles being the range in general. Compare that to 200,000 cases for Perrier Jouët for example, and they are one of the smaller of the big houses.

Lilbert-Fils is a family Champagne house that has been in the family for eight generations, since 1746. The first three generations were grape growers, selling their grapes to cooperatives and négociants. In 1907, with Alphonse Lilbert at the helm, the family became winemakers, taking their grapes from the vineyard through to the bottle. Since then, Jules, André, Georges and now Bertrand Lilbert, the current winemaker, have continued this tradition and are now fifth generation winemakers.

Bertrand Lilbert studied enology and graduated in 1992. Like many of the younger and current generation in Champagne, he then travelled, starting with work in Sonoma Valley before returning to the Champagne region in 1994 to work as a consultant for winemakers in the region. It was in 1998 that he became the winemaker of his family house.

Lilbert-Fils is all about chardonnay, with their vineyards located in the most prestigious area within Champagne for the variety. The vineyards are a mere 3.5 hectares planted on chalk soils in the villages of Cramant, Chouilly and Oiry. These three villages are Grand Crus of the Côte des Blancs.

Lilbert-Fils craft three Champagnes, all 100% chardonnay and all Grand Cru. Total production is about 26,000 bottles, with 75% of these exported. The family does no advertising or marketing, something Bertrand is very proud of. Those who know and appreciate quality eventually find Lilbert-Fils and come to them.

These are exceptional Champagnes, from a tiny, family house that strives to produce the purest expressions of their terroir. We are delighted to have found these Champagnes and be their partner here in New Zealand. You’ll find Lilbert-Fils in all Glengarry stores, sitting alongside the largest range of quality Champagne in New Zealand. (LIZ WHEADON)

www.glengarrywines.co.nz

 

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