If you’ve been meaning to make some changes to your shopping habits when it comes to a greater effort in terms of sustainability...
Read on for some brands and practises making the transition that little bit easier.
Beauty with a conscience
When luxury brand Hèrmes announced it was entering the beauty sphere several years ago with a beyond chic lipstick collection, the news of its packaging garnered more attention than the actual makeup itself. That’s because the stylish cylinders — designed by the fashion house’s fashion and jewellery creative director, Pierre Hardy, were not only one of the chicest items to ever grace your bathroom cabinet or dresser, they also happened to be refillable. The idea was that the lipstick tube was an iconic item, meant to be collected and cherished as one would a piece of fine jewellery or pricey clutch.
There has never been a better time to sit back, reflect and, most importantly, act when it comes to the amount of waste we generate as human beings. Yes, out there in the seas there are rugby fields’ worth of water bottles, milk cartons, plastic bags and takeout containers. But also: shampoo bottles, lipstick tubes, shadow palettes, powder compacts, lotion pumps and fancy packaging that once held creams that we hoped would be that elusive 'Miracle in a Jar'. The United Nations has declared the current environmental trajectory as a ‘planetary crisis’, and the cosmetic industry is a gargantuan contributor. The majority of the beauty industry is anything but beautiful and it’s imperative that leaders within the economy start driving positive environmental change. Currently, the global cosmetic industry produces 120 billion units of packaging every year. The main source of emissions in the industry comes from this packaging, with only a small percentage accepted by local kerbside recycling programmes. Distressingly, the majority of this enormous figure is destined for landfill every year. If this level of consumption continues, there will be 12 billion tonnes of plastic in landfills or scattered through our ecosystems by 2050 – that’s the equivalent of 35,000 Empire State Buildings – which makes for some pretty grim stats. Changes require a little extra effort from us all, but a shift in routine is getting that little easier by the day thanks to constantly innovating brands.
Locally, scientifically backed, 100 percent natural skincare brand Emma Lewisham has been committed to finding carbon positive and circular solutions to address the beauty industry’s waste and pollution problems since its inception in 2019 and shows no signs of slowing down. The brand’s journey to becoming a circular, carbon positive business model has been a lot of work, when they could have easily just sat back on their laurels and enjoyed what has become global success story. And while many businesses have measured their Corporate Carbon Footprint (CCF), very few have dedicated the time and resources to measuring the Product Carbon Footprint (CPF). The detailed research, audited by the notoriously stringent Toitū Envirocare, established that Emma Lewisham’s refillable product vessels have up to a 74 per cent smaller carbon footprint than that of the original packaging, further empowering customers to understand how they can reduce their impact by choosing to partake in Emma Lewisham’s Beauty Circle. Measuring its emissions at a product level has allowed the team at Emma Lewisham to assign a carbon number to each product – showing exactly how many kilograms of carbon (kgCO2e) is emitted to make each individual product. In addition, all of Emma Lewisham’s products are manufactured using 100 per cent renewable energy, and all without sacrificing a truly luxurious feel and delivering impressive results for fans of the brand.
Another local beauty name embracing the circular is Kumo, a bioactive and natural skincare line designed to harmoniously support reactive skin. Meticulously crafted in their Ponsonby sanctuary of the same name by facialist Kate Michelmore, Kumo is dedicated to treating sensitive skin, with a strong emphasis on sustainability. All Kumo products are safe for pregnancy and breastfeeding, oncology friendly, nut free, fragrance free and entirely allergen free. And, even when bottling the first-ever formulations, waste was a serious consideration for the inspiring formulator. To Kate, the idea of encasing a container in an outer carton, when this is not a legal requirement, seemed at best an excess of effort and at worst 'a contribution to environmental degradation'.
All Kumo formulations are housed in premium biphotonic glass, which preserves the potency and shelf life of organic botanical products and is also indefinitely recyclable. In addition, Kate and her team use glass bottles and jars with a peel-off label so that the bottles and jars can be easily repurposed and/or returned to the clinic for re-use. Each month they locally produce only products that have been prescribed and ordered by their loyal clientele, further minimising waste.
The ultimate in sustainable wardrobe choices – pre-loved
A true statement in sustainable style, buying pre-loved, secondhand and vintage clothing has never been more attractive. Whether it’s the thrill of the hunt or to save a bit of money, shopping at op shops, specialty vintage stores and online for pre-worn designer bargains is the perfect way to indulge in a little retail therapy when the mood calls and without the guilt. If you’re one of the lucky ones, you’ll be in a position to splurge on a brand new designer piece, but finding one at a resale shop is much more cost effective and can be just so satisfying!
Secondhand style experts often say that you should be prepared to spend a bit more time when you’re shopping for pre-worn gems and it’s essential that you scrutinise the condition of any potential buys carefully, as you don’t want to just inherit someone else’s tat. You want to check well every part of the clothing over, even the inside where there can often be hidden damage such as ripped lining, and woollens for pilling under the arms or elsewhere.
It's also interesting to see what brands are on offer in your local pre-loved store. Fast-fashion retailers largely design on-trend pieces to only last a season or two, whereas others produce clothing to stand the test of time. Well known names – New Zealand and international – help ensure quality, so look for labels that you already know and have had a good experience with.
Try exploring some of the neighbourhood’s top destinations for great pre-loved fashion. (Helene Ravlich)
Tatty’s: 161 Ponsonby Road
Sempre: 299 Ponsonby
Search and Destroy: 80 Ponsonby Road
Moral Fibre: 63 Ponsonby Road
Scottie’s Recycle: 2 Blake Street
Encore Designer Fashion Recycle: 305 Ponsonby Road
Boutique for SPCA: 27 Ponsonby Road