Puneet Dhall: Every city neighbourhood needs a cool local joint

I would like to make a proposal, m’Lord. For a truly vibrant city, every individual should be able access all of their basic needs within fifteen minutes walk of their house.

And top of my list of local amenities would be the cool neighbourhood joint. Intimate, soulful, delicious, lights on every evening rain or shine. ‘A place where everybody knows your name’.

Such places require passionate souls to run them, dedicated to their core. These individuals have to love the place; they’ll usually spend inordinate amounts of time there.

Ragtag in Westmere most certainly fits all of these criteria and then some. It's a destination too and worth any trip across town for. I am sitting at the back bar adjacent to the prep and serving area of the restaurant, a step through from the central dining room. On the other side of the bar in his self confessed favourite spot of the restaurant is owner/chef Dan Freeman.

He is amiably chatting to me with big smiles. I am, however, worried. He is looking straight into my eyes as we converse. However, in his hands is an exceptionally sharp knife and he is rapidly chopping through some sort of radicchio stems.The chop is perfect and his fingers remain intact. Okay, that’s cool.

I’m also very happy for many reasons. But one of them is that Ragtag is the only place in New Zealand serving by-the-glass, hands-down the finest English wine on the market. The fine English fizz in question is the non vintage Digby Brut Reserve. From the combined counties of Kent, Sussex and Hampshire, the mixture of chalk and greensand soils are the envy of Champagne. The wine has incredible balance, purity and a racy bead that is simply sublime.

Dan prepares three signature dishes to succulently experience alongside the Digby. It's like a symphony, explosions of flavour bursting with energy. Explosion number one: A raw fish tostada, tuna with fruit salsa and chilli oils.

Explosion number two: Beef tartare taco with a sprinkling of American cheese powder on top like yellow snow.

Explosion number three (and the headliner): Duck taco, confit of duck with beetroot salsa on trademark Ragtag duck fat-infused flour tortilla. BOOM. I am transported into orbit. ‘Ground control to Major Tom’. All around me silhouetted in the dark cosmic backdrop drifting effortlessly are a Ragtag bunch of ducks, tortillas and Digby.

I rest my case, m’Lord. (PUNEET DHALL)

www.dnfinewine.co.nz

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