Wine is one of the most ancient products known to humankind.
The natural yeasts that magically infuse the juicy flesh of fruit and divinely create wine reside endemically on the skin of all grapes. The best explanation we can give at this time is that this combination is completely organic and quite simply a gift from God, and that is why we love it so.
And because of its ancient status, it is one of the few industries in this day and age that is almost impervious to ‘disruption’. Year after year, decade after decade, century after century, citizens go about their daily business and for reward imbue delicious wines of their choosing, from Queens to peasants.
So it is wonderful to see the most ancient winemaking techniques see a revival since the turn of the millennium.
“De Martino, one of the most dynamic and enterprising among the experimental and entrepreneurial companies in Chile.” – Jancis Robinson
At De Martino you might think that you had landed on the world of ‘Alien’ as you survey a landscape of strange looking pods in their cellars. These are the ancient clay amphorae in which the grapes are deposited at harvest and allowed to ferment and then age under their own weight, with their skin on and with no additions of any kind. For white wines fermented in such a manner they are given the term ‘Orange wines’ This is because the grape skin which remains in contact with the juice during fermentation can transfer some hues often orange but also open to gradations of greens, golds and pink.
At Gochu in Commercial Bay, Sommelier Camilo Deichler always has an orange pairing on the list with one of their aubergine dishes. Camilo claims that, “Aubergine with its combination of salt and bitter components pairs so well with the perfume, freshness and waxiness of many orange wines.“ Camilo knows his stuff. He trained at the top sommelier school in his home country of Chile and has been in New Zealand for eleven years, working at legendary Antoine’s in Parnell, Mr Morris and now here at Gochu.
Chef-Owner Nathan Lord, apron on, pencil behind ear, twinkling eyes and smile, meets us at the table. Nathan is from the wonderful Taranaki. From a young age he loved cooking with family. Studying cookery and cheffing at W.I.T (Western Institute of Technology), he then learnt his trade in some of the coolest and highest rated restaurants in New Zealand and Australia including our own wonderful Prego for five years and also Attica and The Press Club in Melbourne.
In 2019 he teamed up with David Lee of the Namu group and they opened Gochu in newly created Commercial Bay in downtown Auckland. Inspired by Korean cuisine, their aim was to provide both a classy and fun experience with amazing experimental flavours and dishes.
For example, Chef prepares for us his Chargrilled Chicken marinated in Gochujang (a fermented chilli paste and amazing!) and topped with a comté cheese and leek sauce. The dish sizzles and looks sensational and in fact pairs so nicely with the 2018 De Martino Viejas Tinajas Muscat. The succulence of the chicken, the tang of the paste, the texture of the cheese, with the most beautifully perfumed and floral Muscat with its steely and umami finish. With the wine's brassy greenish golden hues I can safely say to you that ‘Orange is the Old White’. (PUNEET DHALL)
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February 2024