As I live, work and play in Ponsonby and its environs, I have noticed over the last couple of decades how the place has grown into a truly cosmopolitan society.
A myriad of wonderful cultures and languages bathe our streets daily. We’ve got ‘SOUL’ baby, and our cosmopolitan credentials are bursting through into our hospitality scene in a big way.
As Chef Tommy Hope at ‘Sid at The French Cafe’ says,“Pushing boundaries,” and how apt this phrase is. When I look at the last one thousand years or so of history in Aotearoa, I build a picture of a frontier country. A country on the edge of the world, surrounded by high seas. Any and every settler of these shores right up until the modern day has always possessed a pioneering mentality. If there is one spirit that bonds all Kiwis it's that we share this world with each other. We are born free, to roam free. Nature's obstacles of mountains, seas and deserts are simply wonderful boundaries for us to trespass and discover what lies beyond.
This is all exemplified here at The French Café, a contender for New Zealand’s pinnacle hospitality establishment. Owner Sid Sahrawat, is one of our greatest talents in the last two decades. An incredible team too numerous to mention here but including Tommy and also Sommelier Alex Shchpeptkin from Russia’s Ural mountains. And the cuisine. It’s simple. Creativity and deliciousness without rules. The team learns from every aspect of our cosmopolitan society and pushes boundaries. Herbs and spices fused and juxtaposed together.
Chef plates up the most beautiful, flatly cylindrical floral delicacy – ‘Venison Tartare’. An Earl Grey tea cream infusing texture and fragrance. Rosella and hibiscus oil, black garlic with sago crisps and venison black pudding. In order to match this I have to go high! Only one of the finest wines in the world can stand shoulder to shoulder here. So I go for a titan.
A wine that I would be proud to call my desert island choice. A Bordeaux right bank, 2009 Château Troplong Mondot Grand Cru Classe from St Emilion.
If you travel to Bordeaux, then St Emilion is a very good choice of village to stay. It's ‘not too shabby’ as Kiwis are fond of saying. Troplong Mondot sits at the top of the appellation 110 metres high. The estate is over 300-years-old and comprises 37 hectares and just two wines, both red. Le Mondot which is single vineyard and 100% merlot and their Grand Vin, Troplong Mondot which is merlot dominant.
Their deep soils have a good mix of both clay (for power) and limestone (for freshness) making these wines truly remarkable. The 2009 is full bodied, ripe, lush, powerful and packed with multiple layers of black cherries, juicy plums, smoke, licorice, chocolate and blue fruit.
The palate is plush, opulent with black truffle, hints of chalk and a finish that clocks in at more than 40 seconds. (Special thanks to Ferreol Dufou, Director at Troplong Mondot and who kindly supplied this rare wine ex Château for our tasting on his visit here recently.) When you do go to the restaurant, I would also recommend the 2016 Le Mondot. (PUNEET DHALL)
As I wander off into the night an ode comes to me…
Oh Ponsonby, Oh Ponsonby
How I think of thee
So many fine humans
In this humble abode
Such fair minded spirits
Entwining our souls
The finest of fare
and the fairest of fine
How often I think of thee
Oh Ponsonby mine
@puneetofponsonby
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Published: November 2023