It all started in Ponsonby for you with Orphans Kitchen. What do you remember most fondly about those days, and how did they shape the way you cook today?
I would have to say the feeling of complete freedom to do what we wanted is pretty high on the list. Josh and I didn’t follow a rule book with Orphans Kitchen. It was really a true expression of who we were, our friendship and what we were interested in at the time. That was a huge part of the allure of it all.
We could experiment, change things and follow our instincts without feeling like we had to fit into a particular mould. Ponsonby was an amazing place to do that, with a real sense of community around the restaurant. That freedom has stayed with me and is still very much my approach to cooking today. I like food to feel personal and intuitive rather than overly prescribed.
Ponsonby locals might be particularly happy to see the famous Orphans Kitchen crumpets make a return in Good Morning. Why was it important to include them in the book?
The book wouldn’t have felt complete without the Crumpets with Rooftop Honey. We served thousands of them over the 11 or so years we were open, and they somehow took on a personality of their own and developed a bit of a cult following.
They’re quite different from a traditional crumpet. They’re twice baked, easy to make and perfect to serve at home for a large group. There’s also a lot of nostalgia attached to that recipe for me, and I know there is for many people who came to Orphans Kitchen over the years. Including them felt like bringing a little piece of that time into the book.
You describe breakfast as the most generous meal of the day. What is it about breakfast that you love so much?
For me, it’s the small rituals and rhythms of breakfast. It can meet you wherever you are in the moment. I don’t tend to wake up particularly hungry, so I can listen to what my body needs and think about what I might make.
I love those little morning rituals too. Making my coffee the same way each day, preheating my favourite cup with hot water before pouring in the coffee, and then the pre-kindy and school chaos with our girls happening around us. Breakfast can be incredibly simple or something you take your time over, and I like that flexibility.
What did Christmas morning look like for you growing up, and are there any traditions or rituals from those Christmases that you’ve carried into your own family today?
Aside from all the usual Christmas traditions, after Christmas brunch we would have a competition to see who could spit a cherry stone the furthest.
It’s very simple and slightly ridiculous, but those are often the traditions that stick. I’m happy to say the competition is still going strong. It’s become one of those little family rituals that connects Christmas now with the Christmases I remember growing up.
If someone unwraps Good Morning on Christmas morning, which three recipes would you tell them to make first?
I wouldn’t want to force any more food on anyone on Christmas Day! There’s also too much in the book to choose just three.
I’d say look through it, have a read and see what catches your eye. Some dishes are really simple and can be prepared quickly, while others require a little more forward planning and time.
I particularly love the condiments section. It’s the foundation for many of the recipes in the book and a great place to begin. Having a few really good condiments on hand can completely change the way you approach a meal, so I’d start there and let the rest follow naturally.
Quickfire
Sweet or savoury? Savoury.
Your ultimate toast topping? Buffalo curd, marmalade and Parmesan cheese.
Coffee order? Long black with a side of cream; post-lunch, an espresso.
Breakfast in bed or at the table? At the table or standing at the kitchen bench.
One thing that’s always in your fridge? Guindilla peppers.
Your go-to breakfast when you’re short on time? Toast.
Favourite Ponsonby haunt? Daily Bread!
Good Morning by Tom Hishon, available now.
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