It had been over 20 years since I’d been to Melbourne. It is one of my favourite cities in the world, following many previous visits. But last time I was there the population was around three million. Now there are more people living in greater Melbourne than the whole of NZ. It still has that European feel, but now with a large Asian influence and a whole lot of high rise in the CBD. We stayed in a central city Airbnb apartment just off Collins Street.
Downtown Melbourne now has that noisy big city vibrant, busy feel. Very multicultural, with crowded footpaths, car horns tooting and long queues outside some food outlets. Still, there was fantastic food, arts and culture. Over six days we ate out for lunch and dinner, did two wine tours, visited the National Gallery of Victoria, shopped like crazy and treated ourselves to the musical adaptation of Beetlejuice (highly recommended!). There was so much fun and excellence on all levels. We’ll be back for sure.
Day 2, we took a wine tour to the Yarra Valley with highly recommended local Vinetrekker Tour company. Typically, we struck Melbourne winter weather, so it was grey, cold and drizzly on the day. Nevertheless, we saw a mob of kangaroos lethargically bouncing through the vines. Like Tasmania, the greater Melbourne wine regions are more cool climate style. Even though their summer temperatures exceed 40 degrees, winter can plunge to freezing. I gather that the cold southerlies moderate the nighttime temperatures to keep sugar levels relatively low, even compared with New Zealand. Consequently, the wines tend to be dominated by white varieties with high acids and mostly low alcohol. Reds can be variable, with a few pinot noir and syrah standing out. Our nine hour day tour took in five wineries including De Bortoli, Oakridge, Yering Station and Payten & Jones. De Bortoli included a cheese and wine pairing, Oakridge impressed with their chardonnay, and Payten & Jones were off the wall irreverent and crazy with a fab syrah.
Oakridge Blanc de Blanc Yarra Valley 2018 - $AUD65
A lovely, aged, traditional method bubbly aged on yeast lees for five years and eight months. Creamy, toasty and rounded with canned peach, mandarin citrus and a tangy yeast finish. 12.5% ABV - 5 stars
Oakridge Willowlake Gladysdale Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2023 - $AUD48
Grapefruit, honeydew melon, gunflint and a hint of Thai basil. Lemon citrus tang and a lengthy finish. 13.8% ABV - 5 stars
Payten & Jones Major Kong ‘Wild Bunches & Drunken Monkeys’ Yarra Valley Syrah 2023 - $AUD39.58
An unfiltered and slightly funky style with savoury flavours. Complex, herbaceous with blackcurrant, black olives, spiced plum, black pepper and a hint of smoke. 13.5% ABV - 5 stars
(Phil Parker) www.finewinetours.co.nz, phil.parker@xtra.co.nz
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