Finger-lickin’ plant-based deliciousness.
Sandwiched between a bunch of other cafes, bars and boutique stores towards the last big lot of shops at 204 Jervois Road, it’s just what the doctor ordered: an entirely vegan cafe that plies such clever culinary magic that you’d hardly notice its lack of animal flesh.
It’s actually hard to think of anything I don’t love about The Butcher’s son. Everything from the outrageous name to the relaxing space to the attentive table service to the timely arrival of the meals helped to set a scene for an eating experience that could be enjoyed with no inhibitions, and we haven’t even gotten to the food yet.
Owned by James and Louise Logan with business partner Chris Kinnell and with top food professionals Angus McLean (head chef) and Amy Lynn (sous chef) whipping up their potions in the kitchen, it’s a cafe/restaurant hybrid that does high-end, plant-based versions of popular traditional dishes and comfort food.
On the current menu, for instance, are variations on Kiwi favourites like burgers, Mexican (tacos and nachos), curries and Mediterranean. On my only visit thus far, both of us opted for burgers. Now, I can already anticipate the outrage about burgers that cost $22, but I can honestly say that these are like no burger that I’ve ever tasted before, and for the money you get a genuinely hand-crafted piece of edible artwork that looks so gorgeous that you’re at first loathe to cut into its fresh, branded buns.
Still not convinced? My friend Tom opted for the Beet Burger, which I can honestly say was a party in our mouths. The menu lists beetroot, mushroom and tempeh patty, pickles, ‘cheddar’, aioli and tomato jam on a house-made brioche bun, and it tasted at least as good as all those ingredients suggest. In fact, I’m drooling over my keyboard as I write.
I had been trying to convince myself to try the much-hyped, lab-created pea-protein marvel, Sunfed ‘Chicken’, and finally took the jump with their Sunfed ‘Chicken’ Burger. The menu describes it as containing the aforementioned ‘chicken’ fillets, miso slaw, baby spinach and chilli jam and it was very nice but after nearly a lifetime of vegetarianism the texture of the ‘chicken’ was just a bit much for me. KFC fans or those who miss the taste and texture of chicken will appreciate it for sure!
The burgers came with a delicious leaf salad and chunky fries cooked in fresh oil (what a difference) and Tom opted for an ‘upgrade’ to moreish kumara fries ($2).
I’m reliably informed that other dishes with the ‘wow’ factor include the spicy Taco Loco, which includes spiced crispy cauliflower, chipotle aioli and charred pineapple salsa; and the Banana Pancakes for breakfast, which feature caramelised peaches, raspberry coulis and toasted coconut ice-cream (I’m drooling again).
The Butcher’s Son is yet another sign that the plant food revolution is in full swing. It’s a 10 out of 10 and, as you might have guessed, 100% recommended! (GARY STEEL)
The Butcher's Son, 204 Jervois Road, T: 09 930 8610,
www.thebutchersson.co.nz