A Ponsonby Eye on New Zealand Fashion Week

Colin Mathura-Jeffree officially opened New Zealand Fashion Week (NZFW). The model/celebrity has been an NZFW Ambassador for five consecutive years and gives the event enormous bang for its buck. He’s front row at EVERY show, immaculately dressed (always wearing a local designer) and watching every look that comes down the runway with his eyes - not his iPhone or his camera.

We wrote last month of twenty-seven names charming, if soggy, opening show. We’ve since learned that the multi-coloured umbrellas that made the photographs seem exquisitely choreographed (their bright hues perfectly offsetting grey skies and the collection’s neutral-only palette) were, in fact, a happy coincidence. Resene branded, they were ‘lying around’ the venue and after a quick check, to make sure twenty-seven names didn’t have a conflicting paint sponsor, they created magic that saw a shot from the show on Huffington Post UK’s ‘best photos of the day from around the world’ page.

Group shows can be a challenging watch because often some of the magic is lost when the brands’ looks and energy are mingled together. We were happy to absorb the entire Choose Wool show for the sake of Liz Mitchell’s exquisite winter bridal look. Liz is still the queen of the red (or white) carpet in New Zealand.

NOM*d’s show was a meeting of perfect styling and poetry. Models walked to the recording of a performance by poet Sam Hunt at Port Chalmers infamous Chicks Hotel. Chicks iconography featured as some of the prints. Head designer Zeke Sole also mined the NOM*d archive, reinventing familiar stencils and prints - effectively reflecting the label back onto itself. The label’s staple black palette was softened with notes of an eclectic blush pink and utility green.

Andrea Moore was also inspired by poetry. Her AW16 collection, The Poem, explored the nuances of haiku poetry and Japanese culture, the latter represented throughout the show by ‘gold blossoms’ (confetti) falling onto the runway, and beautiful blossom prints. There were gold accents in the hair and make-up, as well as gold bracelets and shoes. In keeping with the haiku tradition - where extraneous words are removed - Moore presented a concise edit of wardrobe essentials.

Ruby excels in creating an environment that resonates with its brand. This year, it was pink walls in a car park, Impulse body spray, and an in-season capsule collection - designed for off-duty dancers - specially created for the show. Aptly titled Tonight, Tonight, the dance-inspired range could be purchased from an on-site pop-up store and Ruby stores countrywide immediately after the show. You really could wear the clothes that night, if you wanted to.

It’s been 10 years since Stolen Girlfriends Club launched their label with a party in an empty Auckland car park where guests drank wine from jam jars. The label’s first garment, a T-shirt printed with the word ‘Relax’, soon followed. A lot has changed in that time, but one thing that has remained constant is that Stolen Girlfriends Club know how to hold a good party. Its concert-esque birthday bash at St James Theatre, where it presented its in-season SS15 collection, Township Rebellion, even saw model Derya Parlak stage dive into the audience.

Kate Sylvester seemed to carry her Mercedes-Benz accolade very lightly and didn’t deviate from her slick and proven show formula. Her partner, Wayne Conway, signed a stunning set for her ‘a Muse’ show that had models stepping on to a catwalk flanked by giant Picasso-like cutouts. The clothing itself can seem surprisingly utilitarian on the runaway at times. Look! A top and skirt! But Kate Sylvester always ‘brings it’ in the ensemble. What’s more, the sophistication born of the label’s 22-year history is evident in precision detailing and cut. The collection was complemented by cool cubist jewellery curated by Sylvester and stylist Paris Mitchell.

This year marks the 15th anniversary for Hailwood. We remember back to 2001 when designer Adrian Hailwood made his Auckland, and Ponsonby, debut at the Ponsonby Fashion Festival and became an instant hit for his striking prints. The standout prints of Hailwood’s AW16 collection, Lion Heart, were Chinese dragon motifs on sweaters and porcelain prints on silks which paid homage to Hong Kong, Hailwood’s manufacturing hub, and to Hailwood’s other trademark of mixing high glamour with casual - sparkling sequins and sneakers.

Zambesi scored 10/10 for design/styling/showmanship - the three elements of a killer runway show. The hair, styled by Redken artist Richard Kavanagh, also made the models look like rock gods. Some of the garments even bore a literal Zambesi signature (pulled from the archive) handwritten by Zambesi co-founder Neville Findlay.

It was a knockout NZFW debut for talented duo Harman Grubisa. No gimmicks, just immaculate sharp looks, beautifully styled with sensational stoles made of Tibetan lambs’ wool. Gem tones, chalky pastels and modern luxury. The thinking woman’s sexy dressing. (JULIE ROULSTON)

www.julieroulston.tumblr.com

photography: Michael Ng www.ngfoto.com